Sinead James The Label: March 2014

Earlier this month we shot our High Summer 14/15 Look Book, unfortunately the release date isn't until later this year in August and all photos are underwraps for the time being. In saying that, I have decided to release a couple of shots of the models make up on the day. Our whole team was blown away by the great job our make up artist, Heather Pinard from Heather Pinard Cosmetics did. We all wanted to know how to do our make up the same, so I asked Heather to provide our lucky followers a step by step guide on 'How To Get The Look'.

16 Steps to achieve the perfect brown smokey eye:

Step 1. Start off by priming the face with HP Retexturcreme Face Primer. You can apply the primer with a foundation brush, sponge or your fingers.

Step 2. Next, I applied the foundation using HP Skin Transforming Foundation in Linen with a foundation brush followed by a buffer brush to give a flawless finish. (I don’t set the foundation until I have finished applying my eye shadow, in case of any fall out from the shadow).

Step 3. I now defined the brows using an angle brush and True Taupe Matte Shadow. Start by wetting the brush and dip into the shadow, pull brush back and forth on the back of your hand to achieve a smooth texture, you don’t want it to be too wet. Start toward the end of the brow (you want the most product at the end of the brow and the least at the beginning otherwise they will look to harsh) draw a sharp line underneath the brow to add definition. You may extend the end of the brows if they are too short. Now with a dry brush, add the same shadow and lightly brush the shadow up the brow from the line you just drew on. You don’t want too much product on the brush. I will take about 60% off before I apply it to the brow. The aim is to fill in any spaces or gaps in the brows, not to draw them completely on, you want them looking as natural as possible with definition. The final step is to add a little extra definition, take your HP Dual Acton Concealer, I used light/Medium and carve out the brow. You will do this by dragging the concealer, (on a concealer brush), along the bottom line of the brow and blending out the edges of the concealer.

Step 4. Now you want to add a base to the eyelids. Apply the HP Dual Action Concealer in Light/Medium and wipe it all over the lid, ensuring to blend out the edges. Set the concealer with powder. I used HP Toast Matte Shadow. Be sure to set lids right after the base has been applied because our lids have a lot of natural oil on them, they can crease, and you will, more than likely, get a crease mark if you don’t set them.

Step 5. I then applied HP Dual Action Concealer under the eye. I have used the Light Peach shade because the Peach undertone in the Concealer will give you a fresh youthful appearance. Blend out edges. I set with HP Baked Hydrating Powder in Light.

Step 6. Next I want to add my transition/mid shade to the crease. This is the colour you will apply that will help blend your crease shade more seamlessly. You want your shadow to blend out and disappear into your skin and the transition shade will give a more blended/soft finish. I used HP True Taupe Matte Shadow, it’s a Terracotta Brown shade and will help warm up the overall look. Take a fluffy brush and apply in the crease blending upwards until it fades away into the skin.

Step 7. Now it’s time to add the crease colour. This is the colour that will give your eyes definition. I used HP Matte Shadow in Tornado. Use a small fluffy brush (using a smaller brush for this step will give you more control in such a small area). Apply directly on the crease, not above or below. Start blending upwards until it fades into the transition shade. I wanted a more smokey look so I applied it onto the lid also. I started on the outer corner then blended it inwards about halfway until it disappeared. I extended the shadow out around the outside of the eye keeping the same shape just extending it more to give the eyes an elongated appearance.

Step 8. Next I applied HP Superwear Gel Liner in Noir. This is a very soft gel pencil that will give you that sultry smoky effect. Apply to waterline on the top and bottom of lid. I drag it slightly outside of the waterline and underneath the lashes. Make sure to get in between the lashes so that there is not a gap between the eyeline and lashes. This product does dry so take a short dense brush and blend out the edges of the liner to soften the appearance. Then I took the same colour that I used in the crease and applied it ontop of the liner to again soften the look making sure to blend out those edges. After that I took the transition shade and lightly blended it over the edges of the crease shade around the outside of the eye.

Step 9. Next, using HP Sheer Satin Shadow in Lingerie, I applied the highlight under the brow. Take a flat Shadow brush and drag it under the brow, blending it down into that transition shade. This will give a glowing appearance.

Step 10. To give even more definition to the eye I used HP Sleek Liquid Liner in Black and drew a sharp line on top of the lashes starting with a thin line from the inner corner of the eye, getting thicker as it extends to the outer corner.

Step 11. Now I applied HP D Wispy lashes using clear Duo glue. Hold the falsies up to the natural lashes to measure the correct length because more than likely you will need to trim them. When trimming cut from the outer end (usually the lash hairs will run small to large, large end being the outer end). Apply glue to the lash band and wait approximately 30 seconds for the glue to get tacky. When applying the lashes make sure they are just above the natural lashes you don’t want a gap in between the false and natural lashes. Once you have them in the correct spot, hold in place for approximately 10 seconds. I then applied HP Lush Mascara in Black, to the natural lashes only, this will blend both lashes together. I then applied the Mascara to the bottom lashes, giving them two coats.

Step 12. Now I will check for any fall out or areas that may need more coverage and take the same foundation and reapply to any areas that need it. Once that is done I then set the foundation with HP Baked Hydrating Powder in Light/Medium.

Step 13. The next step is to contour and highlight the face, one of the most important steps. I used HP Baked Finishing Powder in Matte Bronze to contour. Use a medium sized fluffy angled brush and find the hollows of your cheeks. You want to start by applying the bronzer underneath the cheekbones and blend out halfway down to the corner of the mouth. You will also blend this upwards leaving a sharp line underneath. You can also contour on the jawline, down both sides of the nose, the temples and around the outer edge of the face, remembering to always blend the edges you don’t want any sharp lines. The purpose of contouring is to enhance the natural shadows of the face creating more definition.

Now you will apply the highlighter to the top of the cheekbones, this will give you that dewy/glowing appearance. I used HP Sheer Satin Shadow in Lingerie on a small blush brush. You can also apply this down the bridge of the nose, in the middle of your chin, on the cupids bow and the middle of your forehead. Be careful not to use something that is glittery or you’ll end up looking like a shiny disco ball.

Step 14. I applied HP Crème Lipstick in True Love to the lips using a lip brush. Drag the brush along the lip line to achieve a sharp finish. If you mess up just grab your concealer brush with a little concealer and clean up the edges. This will also give you an extra sharp line but make sure the concealer is the same shade as your skin tone. Finish by applying a little gloss, I used HP Liquid Lips in XOXO.

Step 15. Now the last step is to apply the blush, I leave this till last because you want the entire look to be balanced and blush can sometimes be overwhelming to the rest of the face so by leaving it to your last step you can determine how much blush is required. Apply the blush right on your cheekbones that is in between the contouring and highlighting. I used HP Baked Blush in Nectar applied with a blush brush. Start with only a little on your brush, you can always add more but it is hard to fix if you go a little overboard.

Step 16. Now take a step back and make sure everything is balanced and even. You may want to add a little extra to the crease in the eye now that everything is complete it might need a little more definition.

The order of the steps I have taken aren’t necessarily the right way of doing them it’s whatever your comfortable with. There are no rules, it’s up to you but this is the way I do it although it does vary from time to time sometimes I switch it up.

You can shop all the products mentioned in this post at Heather's website

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Monday, March 10, 2014

How To Get The Look